Mentaiko pasta was invented by the chef at Kabi-no-ana (Hole in the Wall), a restaurant in my old neighborhood of Shibuya in Tokyo that has been around since the 1950s. I used to hang out there with my girlfriends. This is an affordable, unpretentious place that offers an amazing array of wafu pasta. I love mentaiko spaghetti because you only cook the pasta. You just add hot pasta to a bowl of rye, butter, and olive oil, and that’s it.