A science-backed trick to the silkiest, greenest broccoli soup ever

Most broccoli soup recipes don’t exactly scream “stir” or “serve.” In fact, I’d bet most people are more than familiar with it. Cream of Broccoli Soup, or its savory cousin, Broccoli Cheddar Soup. This soup defies all those expectations: a delicious, bright green broth that’s just as rich and velvety (but without the dairy), with perfect chunks of charred broccoli, thawed leeks, and crisp-tender snap peas. are It’s especially suitable for “shoulder” seasons — the periods after summer or before spring, when temperatures are neither too hot nor too cold, but spring onions, peas and, of course, broccoli. Best for green crops.

But making a perfectly smooth broccoli soup without relying on dairy can be difficult. Fibrous broccoli is a challenging ingredient to puree soups with its richness of texture. For a silky, creamy texture, broccoli must be cooked well, until it is tender and falling apart. Unfortunately, broccoli cooked this far often loses its bright green color as the chlorophyll breaks down over time and the heat causes it to turn yellow and unappealing. So how do we achieve a creamy texture while maintaining that attractive green color? We harness the power of pH.

Looking Green: How Baking Soda Enhances Soup

I have written in detail in my article how pH can affect the cooking of vegetables. Baking soda acts as a weak base when dissolved in water, raising the pH of the water. When the pH value of the blanching water is high (about 8.5), the degradation of chlorophyll is slowed, which preserves more of the green color in vegetables such as broccoli. Additionally, sodium bicarbonate specifically reacts with chlorophyll to form chlorophyllin, a green salt derived from chlorophyll. (Chlorophyllin is made by removing the magnesium ion from the chlorophyll molecule and replacing it with sodium. This small substitution makes chlorophyll more stable than chlorophyll. And more stable means more green.)

But adding baking soda to the blanching water can be a double-edged sword: Yes, it can help chlorophyll-rich vegetables retain their green color. But it also leads to messy textures. Why? In a high-pH cooking environment (say, greater than 8.0), pectin (a polysaccharide found in the cell walls of all land plants) breaks down and dissolves more rapidly, causing cell death. The walls collapse more easily as well, leading to a softer, softer texture. .

Usually, that muskiness can be a bad thing. But for the purposes of pureeing to make a soup, the mushiness is perfect! The resulting puree is velvety, smooth, without a hint of stringiness. And because adding baking soda to the cooking water accelerates the breakdown of pectin, it also dramatically reduces cooking time—shaving a few minutes from ten minutes in otherwise neutral pH water. Essentially without adding baking soda.

Once the green puree is properly blended and mixed back into the final soup, it is important to heat the soup until hot and then remove it from the heat. This will preserve the vibrant green color of the soup.

Even Greener: Make it taste even greener with greens

Although broccoli is rich in chlorophyll, it can be a bit overpowering and one-dimensional in its sulfur flavor. To enhance the flavor, I add even more chlorophyll to the mix by blanching the green leek tops and parsley in the same pot before combining with the broccoli. In addition to the vibrant color, this intense green puree also provides much of the soup’s body and texture.

The finishing touches

At this point, the puree has enough vegetable flavor. But to bring richness and depth, I make a broth with leek whites, garlic, fish sauce, and a sneaky spoonful of bouillon paste. These sources of umami add a sweetness to the soup without adding too much meat (if any). For textural contrast, I char extra broccoli florets to serve in the soup, and fold in the peas at the very end for a welcome crisp-tender crunch. The finished soup is delicious, velvety, decadent, and above all, visually stunning. He’s also got enough servings of green vegetables for the whole week – which is always a plus.

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